Pz. III - DAK (sneak peak)

Excellent work so far Rick. Very interesting how you used the filter, more like a wash if I understand it correctly. I never used filters before, I might give it a try.

Jimmy

Hey Jimmy,

Yes, I tend to use the Filters to alter the base color as many use a wash. I prefer them because they are generally color tints, rather than darkening/shadowing agents. Over all washes tend to darken too much for my taste.

I use the Washes only for Pin washes and around details for the shadowing effect.

Hi guys,

Continuing with the sneak peak using the DAK paint and weathering sets I bring you the conclusion of the report that will be available to the world in a few days time....



In this final chapter of our demonstration showing a desert vehicle I will explain some techniques that can be used to transform our newly painted model into a visually interesting representation of an actual vehicle. After allowing time for the base paint colors to dry thoroughly I can now begin the weathering process.

As we head toward the finishing stages it is important that we have a clear idea of the final result we are trying to achieve. Based upon our desired appearance, we can then make good choices about our colors and the techniques we will use to apply them. Since this is a desert vehicle with a lighter colored base paint I prefer using the Washes with Medium Tones in order to avoid harsh contrasts - of course the colors you choose might be different based upon your preferences. I begin by applying AK-066 Wash for DAK Vehicles as a first step toward creating definition to the vehicles shapes and surface features.



Using similar, or complimentary Wash colors is a good way to quickly and easily add tonal depth and visual interest to the finish. Here I apply AK-300 Wash for Dark Yellow German Vehicles to selected areas, this is a perfect companion color for finishing medium toned vehicles. As always, thinners are useful to help blend colors and break surface tension.



Shadows are enhanced by applying heavier applications of Wash around certain details, in this case the commander's cupola. I will allow the Wash liquid to sit and dry for a period of about 10 minutes before I blend the edges using thinner for a smooth transition.



From time to time it is important to take a break and assess our progress. As we can see in this photo the Washes have worked well to add volume and definition to the shapes of the model. Shadows have been enhanced by the use of darker and heavier Washes, while the use of lighter colors have created subtle tonal shifts over the surfaces of the entire model.



With the base colors of the vehicle established, it is now time to apply the weathering effects. Light stains caused by rain and dust can be easily achieved through the use of AK-067 Streaking Grime for DAK Vehicles. Irregular lengths of the Streaking Grime are drawn across the surface using a finer tipped brush. The fluid is allowed to sit for a few minutes and then is blended using a clean brush slightly moistened with thinner. This process can be repeated to obtain a stronger appearance.



Artist's oils may be applied in certain areas to further enhance tonal changes and to add depth of color to the finish. In this example I have limited myself to a few lighter shades of paints deciding only to enhance the highlights and to promote the appearance of paint fading.



Specialty effects such as AK-048 Engine Oil and AK-082 Engine Grime should be applied to selected areas to represent uses by the crew. In this example a mixture of the fluids is being applied to the hubs of the spare road wheels to represent lubrication. Stains are also applied near the fuel cap and on the engine deck.



At this point in the painting process the final weathering and detail painting should be done with your idea for the final appearance in mind. Often, the final steps can take the most time as we must have patience in order to create effects that have a convincing appearance. I also recommend that as you feel you are nearing completion that you begin to take photographs of the model to see if there are any flaws. The camera often can see what our eyes fail to see - it is an important tool for modelers.

Finally, I bring you a few photographs of the finished Panzer III. Remember that we began this exercise with a specific vehicle in mind - one referenced from a black and white photograph. As we can see in this first photograph often times it is difficult to find the camouflage pattern through photos, and this appears to be especially true for DAK vehicles as their patterns tended to be subtle.



The team at AK Interactive have worked very hard in order to determine the correct shades of paint in order to represent the colors of the DAK. These final photographs show the results of this project.







Thank you very much for following along with this project, I hope that you enjoyed it and that it was useful to you.

Best Regards,

Rick

A masterpiece. Great work.

Wow! This is perfect, Rick! I long to see it on the blog! Very well done! Subtle and strong!
Alex!

great work, look like real!!

Great stuff Rick! I know it helps me to have a good idea of what I want the final result to be, as you say.

Cheers
JT

Extraordinary!

Man you make it look so easy. Amazing how you layered the washes and then blended them to get that effect and visual impact. When you use reference photos, do you pick one photo of the subject/tank or use many photos and combined them into the finish product?

Jimmy

Absolutelly great!!!

Great piece of work, what a great finish!

Rick hello!
I love the way you treated your PzIII with ease and a clear explanation on how the products AK!
cheers again for your model that is superb!
friendly gérald

Excellent presentation of model, not the usual. Model super.

Nice work, Rick:
Thank´s for share your Ak Pz III.
Those light colors are difficult to make a realistic apparience.
But futhermore, the rust and dirt are more visible.
Awaiting the next advances.
Regards, Luis

Perfect Pz III. BRAVO

[ Εspecially the black and white photo !!! ]

Hi!
Only one question.Do you use any kind of varnish before you use the washes or just wet the surface with the White spirit?

EdE6688 wrote:Hi!
Only one question.Do you use any kind of varnish before you use the washes or just wet the surface with the White spirit?

Hi,

Yes, after I paint my base colors I applied a very light misting of Future floor polish (acrylic gloss). For me it is something that I have always done, maybe it's "old school" but it's what I am comfortable with. I will say this; the DAK Colors are slightly glossy already and so a protective gloss coating may not be quite as critical as if it were a true Matte finish.

Rick

You're A champion Rick, you make it look so easy.

Looks very good Rick. Great explanation of what you are doing and good ideas.

Nice weathering... my compliments!
Fabrizio.
My blog

Hi Rick, that's very inspiring mate. I have a Pz III in 48th and I'm probably going to do it as a DAK machine now. Mind you, by the time I get to start it I'll probably change my mind 12 times! :-)

That is the best Pz III i have seen Rick what a awesome job many thanks for showing your processes in such detail i think the last lot of edited photos are amazing hats off to ya buddy.

Dan B

fantastic Rick - and we dont expect less delivers in all areas for me - favourite part is the running gear - looks like real heavy rusty track - love it !

best
Mark